Support

Support

We make it easy to use the Cutek wood protection system at each step with our friendly, practical advice and support.

Get the best from Cutek with our help. Our expert team is on-hand to provide technical support and clear, easy to understand step-by-step instructions.

Have a question about the application process, maintenance, or what Cutek oil is best for you? Explore our resources here or contact us.

We’re here to help make using Cutek easy.

FAQs

How long will Cutek last? How often will I have to reapply?

Cutek oils have been scientifically formulated to perform. They’re designed to deeply diffuse into wood and provide protection from the inside out.

Wood treated with Cutek Oils will resist water and remain stable even after the surface has faded or silvered.

To keep your Colourtone treated wood looking beautiful you will need to reapply to maintain the vibrancy of colour. How often depends on a variety of factors.

As an example, a fully exposed deck with heavy traffic will probably need cleaning and recoating every six months, whereas rough-sawn shingles on a protected wall will retain their colour and stability for a number of years after the initial application.

Do I need to wait before I apply Cutek to my new wood?

Unlike most coatings, it is not necessary to wait before applying Cutek to new wood. In fact, we recommend the first coat goes on as soon as possible to protect the wood during the construction phase.

How much does Cutek cost?

Cutek adds value by protecting your capital investment whether you are a budget conscious DIY renovator or a Council with kilometres of boardwalks to maintain.

As a premium wood protection system the value of a single application of Cutek is immense. The coverage rates are up to double that of other wood care products. And Cutek helps save on maintenance too – there’s no sanding or stripping required.

Using Cutek will boost the useful life of exterior wood, helping to reduce costly replacements and upgrades.

Contact your local retailer for pricing.

How Is Cutek different?

Cutek is a professional grade product specially formulated by specialists to protect wood. Unlike other wood coatings, Cutek works by penetrating and stabilising wood rather than by encapsulation.

Proven on all kinds of wood – hardwoods, softwoods and engineered wood, Cutek helps repel water and creates dimensional stability.

Other products sit on the surface and will peel and crack over time, requiring costly repairs. The Cutek system is unique as it will fade rather than crack or peel – meaning easier upkeep, less often. No need to worry about sanding or stripping – simply clean down and recoat for incredible results.

What about natural oils? They’re supposed to be good for wood.

Natural oils have been used for years to protect wood. Nearly all work by cross-linking close to the surface of the wood to provide a barrier, which is similar in its effect to conventional film-forming products. Some natural oils provide nutrients that actually support the growth of unsightly wood discolouring fungi, mould and bacteria.

Will Cutek peel off?

Cutek will not crack, peel or flake. Rather, Cutek will fade gracefully over time at a rate determined by species, situation and weather.

I have just applied Cutek and it is taking a long time to dry. Why is this?

Cutek works by deeply diffusing into the wood and won’t dry on the surface until this process has been fully completed.

The drying process varies in time according to many different factors such as density, porosity, species, residual moisture content and temperature, humidity, wood species and wood density.

To help ensure Cutek dries as quickly as possible avoid:

  1. Wet wood, or wood with a high moisture content. Your wood should contain a maximum moisture content of 17%, as anything higher can significantly delay the drying process. If this happens, Cutek may sit on the surface and eventually go tacky without penetrating properly.
  2. Cold weather. In cold weather, Cutek will become thicker and therefore too much oil is applied. Warm oil by placing in a sunny/warm spot before application to make it thinner and enhance penetration.
  3. Too many coats too soon. The first application of Cutek needs to completely diffuse and dry fully before the next coat is applied.
  4. Existing oil, stain or paint on the surface. Existing film coats act as a barrier to Cutek’s penetration. Old coatings must be fully removed by sanding and or chemical stripping prior to applying Cutek.

Why do I have to wait between coats?

Achieving the best result from Cutek means allowing the oil to diffuse into the wood and dry fully between coats. If it’s not fully dried, excess oil will sit on the surface of the wood and eventually become tacky.

The drying process varies in time according to many different factors such as density, porosity, species, residual moisture content and temperature.

Can I apply Cutek over other coatings, deck stains or oils?

Some oils, stains, paints and films act as barriers for Cutek and must be fully removed first. Heavy sanding, chemical stripping, or a combination of both are required to ensure all existing coatings are removed.

To find out, simply flick some cold water onto the surface of the wood to be coated. If it soaks in, then it is OK to use Cutek. If it beads refer to Removing Existing Coatings under Important Information tab.

Can I use Cutek on LOSP or CCA treated wood or plywood?

Yes, Cutek is safe to use on these types of wood.

Can I use Cutek on decks and outdoor furniture?

Yes. We think Cutek is the best decking oil out there! It’s made to last even in full weather exposure.

Can I use Cutek inside?

Yes, Cutek is suitable for interior use. Generally only one coat of clear oil is required. Cutek imparts a “matt-low sheen” finish to smooth woods, so in areas that are subject to high traffic or abrasion such as flooring, conventional polyurethane technology may provide a more satisfactory result.

It is also important to ensure adequate ventilation when applying Cutek inside, and be aware that the solvent smell may remain for some time as Cutek penetrates the wood. Make sure you only choose Cutek LowVOC or Cutek CD50 oil for your interior jobs.

We recommend testing prior to use in interior applications. Please contact your closest retailer or contact us for a free test sample to see if Cutek is right for you.

I want to protect my new wood, but I want it to naturally silver with age.

Cutek CD50 is a clear oil that will protect wood while allowing it to develop a natural silver/driftwood patina as it ages.

I have new shingles – I want them to silver with age

Use Cutek on new shingles to protect from feathering, splitting, and surface discoloration. Clear Cutek will protect your shingles while allowing them to naturally silver with age. Alternatively, you can use Cutek with “Grey Mist” colourtone to silver the shingles from the beginning.

Is there any warranty on Cutek products?

Cutek is the trusted choice of design and construction professionals and is used across the world. While Cutek is manufactured to the highest standard, we are unable to offer any specific performance warranties because of the wide variation of possible applications for Cutek.

These variables include but are not limited to: the age and porosity of the wood, species, situation, design and structure, aspect, differing exposure to the weather and adequacy of preparation. We recommend testing prior to use in sensitive applications.

Cutek is unable to accept liability for application of incorrect colour to any substrate for any reason or application of Cutek to wood with a moisture content of greater than 17%, or application of Cutek to any substrate with a pre-existing coating.

Many different manufacturers choose to specify Cutek materials for use with their own products, but this does not mean that we are included or involved in any independent warranties issued by a specific manufacturer or distributor in relation to their own product.

We are happy to provide a free test sample to help you determine if Cutek is right for you. Please contact your closest retailer or contact us for a sample.

Fact Sheets

SDS

TDS

Precautions

General

Cutek is the trusted choice of design and construction professionals and is used in households across the world. While Cutek is manufactured to the highest standard, we are unable to offer any specific performance warranties because of the wide variation of possible applications for Cutek.

These variables include but are not limited to; the age and porosity of the wood, species, situation, design and structure, aspect, differing exposure to the weather and adequacy of preparation. We recommend testing prior to use in sensitive applications.

Cutek is unable to accept liability for application of incorrect colour to any substrate for any reason or application of Cutek to wood with a moisture content of greater than 17%, or application of Cutek to any substrate with a pre-existing coating.

We are happy to provide a free test sample to help you determine if Cutek is right for you. Please contact your closest retailer or contact us for your sample.

Weather and Temperature

Before wood applying Cutek make sure wood is clean and dry, with an equilibrium moisture content of no higher than 17% and moisture gradient of less than 1%.

Do not apply Cutek to exterior timbers if it is likely to rain within 24 hours of applying.

Cold temperatures may increase the viscosity of Cutek, and this can slow down the rate of diffusion. Store containers in a warm place immediately prior to applying to help alleviate this problem.

Because Cutek dries by diffusing into the wood substrate, applying a second coat too quickly after the first coat in cold weather will significantly delay the drying process. If this inadvertently occurs, remove excess oil from the surface with a rag; this will help the surface dry faster.

You may delay the second coat of Cutek for up to three months with no detrimental effect to the efficacy of the coating.

Adjacent Surfaces

While Cutek oils, Cutek Proclean, Cutek Quickclean, and Cutek CD33 Naked are safe and easy to use, always remember these are professional strength products, so care must be taken to protect adjacent surfaces from inadvertent contact.

Cutek oils may stain concrete, while Cutek Proclean, Cutek Quickclean, and Cutek CD33 Naked may dull, damage, or remove adjacent paintwork or coatings.

Surface Mould & Fungus

Even clean looking wood may be contaminated with mould spores not readily identifiable with the naked eye. If wood in this condition is coated with Cutek it’s possible that dark staining may occur. If this happens Cutek Proclean may be able to rectify the situation.

Garage Doors

If the wood being coated is on a garage door and the glue holding the wood to the frame is either a rubber based adhesive, or you are uncertain; run a bead of glazing sealer along the back of the door where the wood meets the frame. This will ensure the wood remains intact if Cutek comes in contact with the adhesive.

Rubber & Butynol

Cutek will dissolve rubber based glues and adhesives, and will affect Butynol and rubber surfaces if not wiped off soon after contact is made. It also may affect some silicones in a similar fashion.

When Cutek is applied to wooden shingles, it does not normally affect the Butynol underlay. Wood protected with Cutek can become stained if it is in constant contact with bituminous type materials. To make sure Cutek is right for you please contact us for advice and a free test sample.

Chemicals

Wood surfaces coated with Cutek may show splash or spilling marks if contacted by chemically staining products such as wine, cleaner contaminated water, or strong chemicals. At risk areas include kitchens, bathrooms and spa and pool areas. To make sure Cutek is right for you please contact us for a free test sample.

Cross Diffusion

Where plasterboard, plaster, or any other absorbent material abuts wood coated with Cutek it’s possible cross diffusion into the porous substrate may occur. To make sure Cutek is right for you please contact us for a free test sample.

Leaching

Exterior painted or plastered surfaces below Cutek protected woods may become stained by leachate from above. If this inadvertently occurs contact your closest retailer for Cutek Proclean.

Colour and Weathering

Please note the natural colour of woods can vary significantly. Clear and colourtoned Cutek coated woods can fade and weather at different rates when exposed to the weather. We are unable to offer any specific performance warranties in relation to colour retention for Cutek products because of the wide number of variables related to this weathering process.

These variables include but are not limited to: the age and porosity of the wood, species, situation, design and structure, aspect, differing exposure to the weather, method of application, and adequacy of preparation. We recommend testing prior to use in sensitive applications.

To make sure Cutek is right for you please contact us for a free test sample.

Specially formulated colourtones are available to mix with clear Cutek. This will help keep a freshly oiled look for longer while delaying silvering and maintaining the natural character of the wood.

When selecting from the range of colourtones allow for the wood colour to naturally lighten during the first three to eight months after application, as natural weathering and leaching occurs.

Colour will last longer on rusticated, or band sawn timbers, and may be maximised by including the colourtone in all subsequent applications of Cutek. If colourtoned Cutek has faded over time, wash the timber with Cutek QuickClean or Cutek Proclean and apply a single coat of colourtoned Cutek CD50, Cutek Extreme or Cutek LowVOC to restore the original look of the protected wood.

Fastenings

Cutek will not adversely affect hot dipped galvanised iron, silicon bronze, stainless steel or copper nails. Colour-toned Cutek may lightly stain lead flashing and other substrates contacted by leachate.

Very Light Coloured Substrates

Cutek contains small amounts of copper salts that may impart a faint green hue to very light or white substrates. Please contact us for a free sample of Cutek Oil to test on your light coloured substrate if you suspect this may be a problem.

Knots

When Cutek is applied it diffuses deeply into the wood and displaces moisture. This reduction in moisture content may loosen some knots, particularly in very knotty woods.

Colourtone and Colour Test Pot Variations

While we make every effort to ensure consistency of coloured products, it is occasionally possible there may be a colour variation between made up product and test pots supplied. This may be due to differences in test pot and colourtone storage times and variations in raw material supplies.

It is the sole responsibility of the applicator to ensure the actual colour being applied is suitable for the intended purpose. We cannot and will not be liable for the application of any incorrect colour to any substrate for any reason. If you discover a variation or have any doubts about the accuracy of a coloured product, please contact us for advice and assistance.

Preservation

Cutek is designed purely as a surface coating type product, and is in no way intended to replace licensed wood treatment processes.

Plywood

Applying Cutek to some decorative plywoods with extremely thin top veneers may cause underlying dark veneer glue lines to become visible due to the penetration of Cutek rendering the top veneer semitransparent.

Please contact us for a free sample of Cutek to test on your plywood substrate.

Acetylated Wood

Cutek products are not suitable for use on acetylated wood.

Use of Cutek Colourtones in non Cutek Products

It has come to our attention that representatives of other oil wood coatings are recommending the use of Cutek branded colourtones in their own non Cutek product. Please be advised that Cutek branded colourtones are specially formulated for use in Cutek branded oil wood coating products only. The use of Cutek branded colourtones in any other products is contraindicated and unsupported by us. Please advise your sales staff not to supply Cutek branded colourtones for any non Cutek product.

Important Information

Moisture in wood

Wood is divided, according to its botanical origin, into two kinds: Softwoods from coniferous trees and hardwoods from broadleaved trees. Structurally softwoods are generally simple in structure and lighter whereas hardwoods are generally complex in structure and harder. Softwood (like pine wood) is much lighter and easier to process than the heavy hardwood (like fruit tree wood). The density of softwoods generally ranges between 350-700 kg/m³, while hardwoods are 450-1250 kg/m³. Both consist of approximately 12 % moisture. Due to the more dense and complex structure of hardwood, the permeability is very low in comparison to softwood, thus making it more difficult to dry. The timber of living trees and freshly felled logs contains a large amount of water, which often constitutes more weight than the actual wood. Water has a significant influence on wood. Wood continually exchanges liquid and gas phase moisture (water) with its surroundings, although the rate of exchange is strongly affected by the degree wood is sealed. Dried timbers that are coated with deeply penetrating hydrophobic (water resisting) Cutek CD50 demonstrate a dramatically slowed rate of moisture exchange.

Why Do We Dry Timber?

Drying, if carried out promptly after the felling of trees, protects timber against primary decay, fungal stain and attack by certain kinds of insects. Organisms, which cause decay and stain, generally cannot thrive in timber with a moisture content below 20%. Several, though not all, insect pests can live only in green timber. Dried wood is less susceptible to decay than green wood (above 20% moisture content). Apart from the above important advantages of drying timber, the following points are also significant:

  • Dried timber is lighter, and hence the transportation and handling costs are reduced.
  • Dried timber is stronger than green timber in most strength properties.
  • Timbers for impregnation with preservatives have to be properly dried if proper penetration is to be accomplished, particularly in the case of oil-type preservatives.
  • In the field of chemical modification of wood and wood products, the material should be dried to a certain moisture content for the appropriate reactions to occur.
  • Dry wood works, machines, finishes and glues better than green timber. Paints and finishes last longer on dry timber.
  • The electrical and thermal insulation properties of wood are improved by drying.

Hardwood

Softwood

Fibre Saturation Point

Fibre saturation point is a term used in wood mechanics and especially wood drying, to denote the point in the drying process at which only water bound in the cell walls remains – all other water, called free water, having been removed from the cell cavities. Further drying of the wood results in strengthening of the wood fibres, and is usually accompanied by shrinkage. Wood is normally dried to a point where it is in equilibrium with the atmospheric moisture content or relative humidity, and since this varies so does the equilibrium moisture content.

Equilibrium Moisture Content

Wood is a hygroscopic substance. It has the ability to take in or give off moisture in the form of vapour. The water contained in wood exerts a vapour pressure of its own, which is determined by the maximum size of the capillaries filled with water at any time. If the water vapour pressure in the ambient space is lower than the vapour pressure within wood, desorption takes place. The largest sized capillaries, which are full of water at the time, empty first. The vapour pressure within the wood falls as water is successively contained in smaller and smaller sized capillaries. A stage is eventually reached when the vapour pressure within the wood equals the vapour pressure in the ambient space above the wood, and further desorption ceases. The amount of moisture that remains in the wood at this stage is in equilibrium with the water vapour pressure in the ambient space, and is termed the equilibrium moisture content or EMC.. Because of its hygroscopicity, wood tends to reach a moisture content that is in equilibrium with the relative humidity and temperature of the surrounding air. The EMC of wood varies with the ambient relative humidity to a lesser degree with the temperature. EMC also varies very slightly with species, mechanical stress, drying history of wood, density, extractives content and the direction of sorption in which the moisture change takes place (i.e. adsorption or desorption).

Moisture Content Of Wood In Service

Wood retains its hygroscopic characteristics after it is put into use. It is then subjected to fluctuating humidity, the dominant factor in determining its EMC. These fluctuations may be more or less cyclical, such as diurnal changes or annual seasonal changes. In order to minimise the changes in wood moisture content or the movement of wooden objects in service, wood is usually dried to a moisture content that is close to the average EMC conditions to which it will be exposed. These conditions vary for interior uses compared with exterior uses in a given geographic location. The EMC is recommended to be 10-12% for the majority of Australian states, although extreme cases may be up to 15 to 18% for some places in Queensland, Northern Territory, Western Australia and Tasmania. However, the EMC may be as low as 6 to 7% in dry centrally heated houses and offices or in permanently air-conditioned buildings. The primary reason for drying wood to a moisture content equivalent to its mean EMC under use conditions is to minimise the dimensional changes (or movement) in the final product. Dried timbers that are coated with Cutek CD50 are less susceptible to dimensional changes because the deeply penetrating hydrophobic (water resisting) nature of Cutek CD50 minimises the free absorption and desorbtion of liquid and gas phase moisture.

Sourced from Wikipedia

Shrinkage and Movement

Shrinkage and Swelling

Shrinkage and swelling may occur in wood when the moisture content of timber is changed. Shrinkage occurs as moisture content decreases, while swelling takes place when it increases. Volume change is not equal in all directions. The greatest dimensional change occurs in a direction tangential to the growth rings. Shrinkage from the pith outwards, or radially, is usually considerably less than tangential shrinkage, while longitudinal (along the grain) shrinkage is so slight as to be usually neglected. The longitudinal shrinkage is 0.1 to 0.3%, in contrast to transverse shrinkages, which is 2-10%. Tangential shrinkage is often about twice as great as in the radial direction, although in some species it may be as much as five times as great. The shrinkage is species dependent and can be typically 5 to 10% in the tangential direction and 2 to 6% in the radial direction. Dried timbers that are coated with Cutek CD50 are less susceptible to dimensional changes because the deeply penetrating hydrophobic (water resisting) nature of Cutek CD50 minimises the free absorption and desorbtion of liquid and gas phase moisture therefore assisting with maintaining the dimensional integrity of moisture stabilised timbers.

Factors Affecting the Dried Appearance, and Dimensional Integrity of Wood

Factors that significantly affect the drying, appearance and dimensional integrity of dried timbers are:

  • The species; because of the variations in physical, mechanical and moisture transport properties between species.
  • The thickness of the timber; because the drying time is approximately proportional to thickness and, to some extent, is also influenced by the width of the timber.
  • Whether the timber boards are quarter-sawn, back-sawn or mixed-sawn; because sawing pattern influences the distortion due to tangential and radial shrinkage. This leads to warping, cupping, bowing, twisting, spring and diamonding. (see image)
  • Defects that arise due to uneven drying such as rupture of the wood tissue, checks (surface, end and internal), end splits, honey-combing,case hardening and collapse.

Sourced from Wikipedia

Iron stain

Iron stain, is an unsightly blue–black or gray discoloration that is often incorrectly described as “mould” because of its frequently “spotty” appearance. Iron stain can occur on nearly all woods, however some timbers are particularly prone to iron stain because they contain large amounts of tannin-like extractives. The discolouration is usually caused by a chemical reaction between extractives and iron content in steel products, such as nails, screws, and other fasteners. Steel used in contact with wood must be protected from corrosion by using stainless steel or processes such as hot dip galvanising. Problems with iron contamination can come from traces of iron left on wood from cutting, grinding or slicing; cleaning the surface with steel wool, wire brushes, or iron tools; using finishes stored in rusty containers; and using previous iron-containing or iron-contaminated finishes. Iron dust from metalworking and even plant fertilizers can be sources of iron along with removal of old rusted guttering, handrail construction and contact by steel capped boots. Merely striking wood with a hammer can cause iron stain on some timbers. Urine on wood floors will also hasten the reaction with iron and wood extractives, producing the typical iron stain discolouration. Unprotected timbers that get wet on or off site prior to fixing are particularly vulnerable as the water soluble extractives are more readily mobilised to react with any iron contamination.

Testing For Iron Stain

A simple test can be used to determine whether wood discolouration is caused by iron. Apply undiluted Cutek Proclean, scrubbing into the stained wood surface. If the solution removes the stain after approximately one hour, then iron is present on the wood. If the solution does not remove the stain, try applying bleach to the stained area. If the iron stain is spotty, try to view the stained wood under a 10x magnifying glass. ”Chunky” discoloration is usually a result of molten metal and looks like clinkers from a grinding operation. Stain that resembles slivers or flakes could be from steel wool. An even discolouration throughout the stain indicates that the iron was in solution when it contaminated the wood, probably in a contaminated finish or iron contaminated water.

Removing Iron Stain

It is easy for iron to contaminate wood, as there are so many possible sources of iron contamination on a building site that are often not initially recognised. To remove iron discolouration scrub stained timbers with undiluted Cutek Proclean and leave to soak for one hour. After one hour thoroughly wash the surface with fresh water (preferably with a power washer) to remove excess Cutek Proclean. It is very important to rinse the Cutek Proclean off thoroughly because if all sources of iron are not removed or protected from corrosion, staining will occur again. In other words, treatment with Cutek Proclean is only a temporary solution if iron remains on or in the wood. Cutek Proclean  reacts with iron tannates to form a colorless complex. In time, the residual unrinsed Cutek Proclean /iron complex will break down, permitting the iron to react with the extractives to form a dark-coloured stain again.

Removing Existing Coatings

Cutek CD33 naked is the perfect choice to remove existing coatings easily.

Because of the wide variation in coatings to be stripped it is vital to test Cutek CD33 Naked before starting your project. This will help you determine how much time you’ll need to leave Cutek CD33 naked on the timber and how much product you will need for the job.

Equipment you will need

Paint brush, clean paint pot, pressure cleaner or paint scraper. For large areas such as timber decks use a lamb’s wool applicator and paint tray.

Understanding Colourtones

It’s important to understand that CUTEK is a unique penetrating oil system designed to enhance the natural colour and grain of wood. CUTEK is sold as a clear oil which can be used to protect the wood from moisture and moisture related movement such as cupping, warping and splitting. Using just the clear oil will protect the wood, providing stability and structural integrity while allowing it to naturally lighten to produce a silver weathered patina over time. The soft natural lightening and silvering of the wood represents a low care option and is becoming an increasingly popular way to leave wood in weather exposed settings.

Wood projects using clear CUTEK oil that have silvered can easily be returned back to the wood’s original colour using ProClean and high pressure washing followed by further applications of CUTEK clear oil.

However, if you desire to maintain the original colour of the wood then you need to purchase a Colourtone suited to your selected wood which will further enhance the natural colour and grain and help to maintain its “natural” colour over a longer period of time.

What to expect when using colourtone

Most wood care products on the market leave a build up of material on the surface of the wood. In the short term this provides more colour, but in the long term the finish can be prone to peeling and flaking, which requires time and money to repair.

The Cutek system is unique as it will fade over time rather than peel or flake. The initial Cutek Colourtone build on new smooth wood projects only offers subtle amounts of pigment that enhance the wood. Timber that’s exposed fully to the weather will lighten faster as the wood acclimatises over the first six months. A follow up application after this initial weathering period will provide much greater Colourtone build as the wood becomes rougher and more open.

How to increase colour build on new wood

New wood is milled smooth and often has a mill glaze which will greatly restrict the initial colour build. Better results can be achieved by creating a rougher surface and preparing the wood using Cutek Proclean in combination with a high pressure washer. Sanding the new wood to 80 grit will give even better results as it removes mill glaze and creates a much rougher surface which will enable higher colour build. Note…The rougher the surface of the wood, the greater the colour build and durability. Rough sawn or heavy brushed wood profiles will take more oil and colour so much bolder colour contrast can be achieved. The amount of mill glaze if any that is present on any job can vary significantly depending on species density, and machining method used. Note, sanded surfaces should be vacuumed or washed thoroughly to remove all loose wood and dust.

Select Colourtone

Our Colourtone system is designed to enhance the wood colour and grain you select. With this in mind, you need to think about your original wood choice and the colour it most represents. Is it light to Golden, Brown, Red or a combination? Here are a few common examples to help you understand:

Black Butt and Silver Top Ash… Light tones so Rustic Gold is a good choice

Spotted Gum…Light creamy to brown and greys. Rustic Gold and Sela Brown will all look similar on new smooth wood.

Merbau and Red Iron Bark…red to brown tone so Autumn Tone, New Bronzetone, Burnt Red and Chestnut will all look very similar on smooth wood.

Forest Reds and Jarrah…Red tones. Autumn Tone, New Bronzetone and Burnt Red are all close options and will look similar on smooth wood.

Changing the original colour of any wood

For horizontal walk on surfaces such as decking, we recommend you select a Colourtone that is the closest match to the wood you have selected, rather than attempt to change the colour. You can talk to any of our stockists for advice.

For cladding and screening, a much higher build of colour can be achieved which can completely change the original tone of the wood. Even very light wood coloured species can become an almost solid Black, Grey, Red, Brown or Gold if the wood surface is suitably rough and more coats or a higher pigment loading has been added.

In some circumstances you can double your Colourtone to achieve bolder effects on rough or brushed wood. We advise that you contact us to discuss this option in more detail as we want to ensure you have the best information possible.

Application

One colourtone size can be used in all pack sizes as follows:

  • 1 x 250 ml Colourtone pot is required for a 5 litre can of CUTEK oil.
  • 2 x 250 ml Coloutone pots per 10 litre can of CUTEK oil.
  • 4 x 250 ml Colourtone pots per 20 litre can of CUTEK oil

Stir and mix the Colourtone well before adding into the clear oil. Continue to stir well with a flat stirrer, lifting from the bottom, for about 2 minutes before use and give a quick stir about every 15 minutes during use to ensure even results.

For best results, one coat of clear CUTEK oil should be applied to all faces of the wood prior to installing, with a second and third coat of colourtoned Cutek oil applied to the top surface once the first coat is completely dry. Two or three thin coats on finished wood and hardwoods are better than one or two thick coats. CUTEK oils will take longer to absorb/penetrate into dense hardwoods so thin coats are best so as to avoid delayed drying of the oil.

Maintenance

Colourtoned Cutek oil will lighten/fade faster in full weather exposed areas whereas wood in protected areas will retain colour with minimal maintenance over time.

Cutek is designed to gradually fade over time rather than peel, split or crack.  Rejuvenation of faded timbers coated with Cutek oils is a simple, fast and cost-effective process.

Clear or colourtoned CUTEK oil should be reapplied as frequently as necessary to retain the natural beauty and colour of the wood. Assessment of this is subjective and it is important to realise that colour durability varies widely according to many factors including the age and porosity of the wood, species, situation, exposure to the weather and how rough the wood surface is.

Typically, horizontal exterior smooth surfaces exposed to full weather such as pool decks and handrails will require re-coating more frequently (initially after 6 months, then annually) than vertical rough-sawn cladding (typically every 2-5 years).

Using Cutek Oils on Bamboo

As a substitute for hardwood floors bamboo can be an attractive choice. It looks great and as a renewable resource is an environmentally friendly option. Engineered bamboo offers stability and good looks too.

However, bamboo isn’t wood and behaves very differently. It needs a much higher level of care and a different approach to make sure it’s protected and stays looking its best for as long as possible.

We recommend using Cutek Extreme on bamboo. Cutek CD50 or Cutek LowVOC is not suitable for bamboo.

Bamboo is a grass, and doesn’t contain the extractives that give durability to many woods. It’s also very hygroscopic, meaning it takes up moisture rapidly and can also dry out very quickly, especially in direct sun. This makes engineered bamboo very susceptible to unsightly black staining moulds and significant surface erosion when exposed to rain and sun meaning that it will split/check and go grey/black rapidly if not properly protected.

Additionally, because engineered bamboo absorbs and releases moisture very quickly, most traditional wood coatings, deck stains and oils don’t last very long on fully weather exposed material.

We have observed that what may work reasonably well on wood for 6 to 12 months can often fail on bamboo material inside 12 weeks from time of application.

In our many years of testing, observation and user feedback, we have found that some engineered bamboo products are just not suitable for full weather exposed applications, despite manufacturer’s claims.

If you’re using Cutek Extreme on bamboo we recommend following this process for best results.

It’s important to be aware that there are many engineered bamboo products on the market, of widely varying quality. Cutek Extreme may or may not work on your chosen engineered bamboo product despite following our recommendations.

  • Inspect your bamboo surface on a regular basis after coating and clean with Proclean or QuickClean at the first sign of mould or surface erosion/splitting, followed by a reapplication of a thin coat of Cutek Extreme. This must be done as frequently as is necessary.
  • If installing a bamboo deck that has been factory pre-coated with Cutek Extreme it will need at least one thin coat within one month of install. If using a colourtone to alter the existing colour, then two coats will be needed for adequate colour build. A further coat should be applied within 6 months, and another after 12 months.

New bamboo decking which has not been precoated with Cutek Extreme should be coated on all sides before installation, and given two further coats with a colourtone within a month of installation, following the application procedure on the label.

A further coat should be applied within 6 months, and another after 12 months.

  • If using strand woven bamboo this product can contain glue which varies in quality. Cutek Extreme will not penetrate the glue in strand woven bamboo as it forms a physical barrier. Some products are very prone to surface expansion and become very rough. If this occurs, sanding back to a flat surface using 80 grit paper is the best preparation prior to application of Cutek Extreme.

Clear Cutek Extreme can be used without a colourtone, and will fade to a very light natural matt colour over a couple of months, but will resist greying for some time before needing to be recoated. To maintain a ‘freshly oiled’ look, more frequent oiling is required.

IMPORTANT NOTE

While the procedures detailed above have proven in some cases to produce a satisfactory result in the decorative coating of engineered bamboo in many countries and are detailed in good faith to assist people, we do not, and are unable to, offer any warranty or performance guarantee of any type (including but not limited to any warranty or performance guarantee in respect of coating longevity, mould/fungi degradation, and splitting/delamination) for the use of any Cutek products on any bamboo substrate.

This is due to the wide variation in the quality of products in the engineered bamboo market including variations in manufacturing processes, varying quality control, varying efficacy of preservative/treatment processes, origin of the raw bamboo, time of bamboo harvest, quality of the glues, place of manufacture etc.

Some manufacturers choose to specify Cutek Extreme as suitable for their engineered bamboo product, but this does not mean that we are included or involved in any independent warranties issued or implied by a specific manufacturer or distributor in relation to their product.

Stains and Leaching

Stains On Wood Due To Natural Causes

Wood is a natural material that contains a wide variety of compounds that are termed “extractives”. While they are not part of the essential wood structure, they contribute to natural colour, odour, durability and moisture absorbency of a particular species, and may comprise of polyphenols, terpenes, oils, fats, gums, resins and waxes.

Extractives can leach to the surface of the wood and stain the wood.

Stains On Processed Wood Arising From Damage To The Living Tree

If the protective bark on a tree is ruptured the tree will respond by forming protective compounds. Any ruptures potentially expose the tree to invasion by a variety of organisms. If these compounds and organisms are exposed to oxygen and weather it may cause an unsightly stain on processed wood.

Stains Due To Chemical Changes In Wood Extractives

As wood grows streaks or blotches of different shades can occur. It’s these variations that add character to the wood and enhance its decorative value. However, when processed wood is placed in the environment and exposed to oxygen and light these natural colour variations can significantly change. Often blonde woods acquire a yellowish tint and red woods become more brown.

Stains And Leaching Due To Water

If processed wood is exposed to moisture in the environment some of the extractive may leach to the surface, and dissolve, creating watermarks. If the extractive runoff the surface of the wood they can actually stain surrounding surfaces like concrete, tiles and pavers.

Tannins (polyphenols) in particular are likely to react with alkaline surfaces such as concrete to form an unsightly red/brown stain.

In Australia, eucalypts such as Stringybark and Blackbutt and tropical hardwoods such as Merbau are particularly prone to causing such staining. If left alone to weather, the level of extractive runoff will reduce and result in a significant reduction in ongoing staining over time. Chemical cleaning and removal of these stains is a simple and easy process with Cutek Proclean.

Stains Caused By Chemical Reaction With Iron

Many wood species have a high tannin content. If the wood gets wet the tannins can react with iron to form black and insoluble iron stain.

This can cause dark discolourations that can appear suddenly. These stains are often caused as a result of contact with a steel blade or tool during processing or fixing. The stains are limited to the surface and can be cleaned and removed easily.

In Australia we have noticed Blackbutt is particularly susceptible to this issue. More information on iron stain in above tab labelled Iron Stain.

Pre-Cleaning Susceptible Woods

If you’re using wood with a high level of extractives and fixing it in a wet environment we recommend a pre-clean using Cutek Proclean prior to coating with Cutek.

While we can’t offer a 100% guarantee due to the varied nature of wood, in our experience a pre-clean helps reduces the chance of stains and helps minimise any stains that do occur.

Removing Stains And Leachate

Easily remove iron tannates on wood and leachates on adjacent surfaces with Cutek Proclean. Follow the procedures in the Cutek Proclean factsheet for the best result.

How To Apply

Cutek CD50 Oil

New Wood

Ensure that timber to be coated is clean and dry. Cutek CD50 can be used on treated timber, however wood with mill glaze, or pre-treated with wax and polymer processes such as LOSP may require cleaning first with Cutek Proclean.

Old, or Previously Coated Wood

Old, dirty, stained or weathered timber should be prepared by first applying Cutek Proclean restoration agent, then power rinsing with a high-pressure washer set to under 750 p.s.i. (50 bar), with a fan jet pattern to avoid damage to the wood fibre. Once the timber is thoroughly dry, apply two coats of Cutek CD50.

Wood previously coated with a film forming product such as stains, linseed oil, paint, polyurethane, etc., must first be restored with Cutek CD33 Naked paint stripper and Cutek Proclean prior to the application of Cutek CD50. This process can be complex, so view the videos on this website for more information.

The results achieved from restoration are dramatic and rewarding – the original natural colour and beauty of wood can be restored.

Application Technique

Before you get started

Before you begin, note the hazards and precautions on this website and the can labelling, and ensure that you use the correct safety equipment as detailed in the Safety Data Sheet.

Step by step application process

Avoid contact with plants, shrubs, trees and waterways. For best results, one coat of Cutek CD50 should be applied to all faces of the wood prior to installing, with a second coat applied to the top surface once the first coat is completely dry.  Penetration time varies significantly, depending on species, temperature, porosity, and moisture content of the wood.  Thicker sections such as post, beams and logs will require additional coats, as Cutek CD50 has a cumulative effect in the wood.

Apply each coat evenly with brush, paintpad or roller.  When using Cutek Colourtone it is essential that the container holding the oil be stirred frequently both before and during use.  Two or three thin coats on finished wood and hardwoods are better that one or two thick coats.

Wood must feel completely dry and non-greasy before application of the second coat.

Cleanup

Equipment may be cleaned with soap and water or turps.  Oily rags and other oily materials may cause combustion fires.  Immediately after use you MUST (1) spread out all oily materials outside to dry, by flattening them out to their full size in an airy spot at temperatures above 4 degrees Celsius, or (2) Wash them thoroughly with water and detergent and rinse.  Remove all oil from all clothes, tools, rags and any other materials contacted during use or as a result of an accidental spill. All wash water is to be disposed of properly.

Coverage

These figures represent typical averages for common decking and cladding timbers such as Western Red Cedar, Pine, Spotted Gum, Jarrah, Ironbark, Ipe, Tiger deck, Cumaru and other Exotics, Thermal wood etc.

New hardwoods dressed10–20m2/litre (400–800 sq feet/gallon)
Old restored timber dressed7–9m2/litre (300–400sq feet/gallon)
New timber rough sawn7–9m2/litre (300–400sq feet/gallon)
Old restored timber rough sawn4–7m2/litre (180–300sq feet/gallon)
Shingles and shakes2–5m2/litre (84–212sq feet/gallon)

Cutek ProClean

Unlike bleach, Cutek Proclean is not considered a strong defoliant, however, we recommend using absorbent drop cloths to protect delicate and/or adjacent vegetation and surfaces.

For best results use Cutek Proclean as supplied and stir it well before use. Sometimes, if you’re working with an easy to clean surface Cutek Proclean can be diluted with water. If a choice to dilute the product is made, always test to determine if the dilution being used is effective in cleaning.

Application

Before you begin, note the hazards and precautions on this website and the can labelling, and ensure that you use the correct safety equipment as detailed in the Safety Data Sheet.

After testing a patch of timber and determining the required dilution, if any, apply Cutek Proclean liberally to a pre-wetted timber substrate with brush, roller, or garden sprayer.

Let Cutek Proclean do most of the work by letting it sit on the surface for 10 minutes – 8 hours, or such time as deemed to be necessary by the test procedure. It may be necessary to scrub stubborn stains moderately with a stiff fibre brush.

Removal

Once Cutek Proclean has cleaned the timber, it must be power rinsed off thoroughly. For best results, power rinse with a high-pressure washer set to under 750 p.s.i. (50 bar), with a fan jet pattern to avoid damage to the wood fibre.

Clean from the lowest point and work upwards methodically. ALWAYS clean off with a water jet that produces a “putty knife” shaped fan that is 40–50mm wide about 100mm out from jet. Adopt a continuous “mowing action” working with power water fan-jet 100mm from the face of the substrate. DO NOT use “turbojets” on timber. CAUTION must be used when cleaning soft timber to reduce the pressure and avoid damaging the sapwood.

The longer that Cutek Proclean is left on the substrate, the greater the rinse time required.

Additionally, certain types of wood surfaces may leave a raised grain effect after stripping is completed. Sanding or poly pad scrubbing may be required to smooth out this condition.

If Cutek Proclean is being used to remove mill glaze (a smooth glossy surface found on smooth newly sawn timber, which is impervious to most coatings) use the same procedure as above.

 

Recoating with a Cutek oil

Following the restoration of the timber with Cutek Proclean, it is important to complete the restoration process by coating the timber with an appropriate Cutek oil, following the procedures detailed in this website.

Not treating the timber after cleaning will result in the weathering process occurring more rapidly than prior to cleaning.

Cutek Extreme Oil

New Wood

Ensure that timber to be coated is clean and dry. Cutek Extreme can be used on treated timber, however wood with mill glaze, or pre-treated with wax and polymer processes such as LOSP may require cleaning first with Cutek Proclean.

Old, or Previously Coated Wood

Old, dirty, stained or weathered timber should be prepared by first applying Cutek Proclean restoration agent, then power rinsing with a high-pressure washer set to under 750 p.s.i. (50 bar), with a fan jet pattern to avoid damage to the wood fibre. Once the timber is thoroughly dry, apply two coats of Cutek Extreme.

Wood previously coated with a film forming product such as stains, linseed oil, paint, polyurethane, etc., must first be restored with Cutek CD33 Naked paint stripper and Cutek Proclean prior to the application of Cutek Extreme. This process can be complex, so view the videos on this website for more information.

The results achieved from restoration are dramatic and rewarding – the original natural colour and beauty of wood can be restored.

Application Technique

Before you get started

Before you begin, note the hazards and precautions on this website and the can labelling, and ensure that you use the correct safety equipment as detailed in the Safety Data Sheet.

Step by step application process

Avoid contact with plants, shrubs, trees and waterways. For best results, one coat of Cutek Extreme should be applied to all faces of the wood prior to installing, with a second coat applied to the top surface once the first coat is completely dry.  Penetration time varies significantly, depending on species, temperature, porosity, and moisture content of the wood.  Thicker sections such as post, beams and logs will require additional coats, as Cutek Extreme has a cumulative effect in the wood.

Apply each coat evenly with brush, paintpad or roller.  When using Cutek Colourtone it is essential that the container holding the oil be stirred frequently both before and during use.  Two or three thin coats on finished wood and hardwoods are better that one or two thick coats.

Wood must feel completely dry and non-greasy before application of the second coat.

Cleanup

Equipment may be cleaned with soap and water or turps.  Oily rags and other oily materials may cause combustion fires.  Immediately after use you MUST (1) spread out all oily materials outside to dry, by flattening them out to their full size in an airy spot at temperatures above 4 degrees Celsius,  or (2) Wash them thoroughly with water and detergent and rinse.  Remove all oil from all clothes, tools, rags and any other materials contacted during use or as a result of an accidental spill. All wash water is to be disposed of properly.

Coverage

These figures represent typical averages for common decking and cladding timbers such as Western Red Cedar, Pine, Spotted Gum, Jarrah, Ironbark, Ipe, Tiger deck, Cumaru and other Exotics, Thermal wood etc.

New hardwoods dressed10–20m2/litre (400–800 sq feet/gallon)
Old restored timber dressed7–9m2/litre (300–400sq feet/gallon)
New timber rough sawn7–9m2/litre (300–400sq feet/gallon)
Old restored timber rough sawn4–7m2/litre (180–300sq feet/gallon)
Shingles and shakes2–5m2/litre (84–212sq feet/gallon)

Cutek Quickclean

Unlike bleach, Cutek Quickclean is not considered a strong defoliant, however, we recommend using absorbent drop cloths to protect delicate and/or adjacent vegetation and surfaces.

Cutek Quickclean must be diluted 8:1 with water. Always test to determine if the dilution being used is effective in cleaning. If the timber is proving difficult to clean, it might be more cost effective to use Cutek Proclean instead of Cutek Quickclean on a large project.

Application

Before you begin, note the hazards and precautions on this website and the can labelling, and ensure that you use the correct safety equipment as detailed in the Safety Data Sheet.

After testing a patch of timber, apply Cutek QuickClean liberally to the timber substrate with brush, roller, or garden sprayer. Let Cutek QuickClean do most of the work by letting it sit on the surface for 10 – 20 minutes, or such time as deemed to be necessary by the test procedure. It may be necessary to scrub stubborn stains moderately with a stiff fibre brush.

Removal

Once Cutek Quickclean has cleaned the timber, it must be power rinsed off thoroughly. For best results, power rinse with a high-pressure washer set to under 750 p.s.i. (50 bar), with a fan jet pattern to avoid damage to the wood fibre.

Clean from the lowest point and work upwards methodically. ALWAYS clean off with a water jet that produces a “putty knife” shaped fan that is 40–50mm wide about 100mm out from jet. Adopt a continuous “mowing action” working with power water fan-jet 100mm from the face of the substrate. DO NOT use “turbojets” on timber.

CAUTION must be used when cleaning soft timber to reduce the pressure and avoid damaging the sapwood. The longer that Cutek QuickClean is left on the substrate, the greater the rinse time required. Additionally, certain types of wood surfaces may leave a raised grain effect after stripping is completed. Sanding or poly pad scrubbing may be required to smooth out this condition.

Recoating with a Cutek oil

Following the restoration of the timber with Cutek Quickclean, it is important to complete the restoration process by coating the timber with an appropriate Cutek oil, following the procedure detailed in this website.

Not treating the timber after cleaning will result in the weathering process occurring more rapidly than prior to cleaning.

Cutek CD33 Naked

Unlike bleach, Cutek CD33 Naked is not considered a strong defoliant, however, we recommend using absorbent drop cloths to protect delicate and/or adjacent vegetation and surfaces.

For best results use Cutek CD33 Naked as supplied and stir or shake it well before use.

Application

Before you begin, note the hazards and precautions on this website and the can labelling, and ensure that you use the correct safety equipment as detailed in the Safety Data Sheet.

Apply Cutek CD33 Naked evenly with a brush to dry wood, rubbing into the grain. Reaction time is approx. 30-60mins. Keep area wet by applying more Cutek CD33 Naked. Test periodically with a paint scraper to determine when the old coat is stripping cleanly of the timber.  When this happens the stripped surface is ready for rinsing.

Removal

Once Cutek CD33 Naked has cleaned the timber, it must be power rinsed off thoroughly. For best results, power rinse with a high-pressure washer set to under 750 p.s.i. (50 bar), with a fan jet pattern to avoid damage to the wood fibre.

Clean from the lowest point and work upwards methodically. ALWAYS clean off with a water jet that produces a “putty knife” shaped fan that is 40–50mm wide about 100mm out from jet. Adopt a continuous “mowing action” working with power water fan-jet 100mm from the face of the substrate. DO NOT use “turbojets” on timber.

If the stripped timber looks dull after cleaning, apply Cutek Proclean while surface is still wet, wait 30 minutes and re rinse.  This will brighten the stripped timber and enhance the grain.

CAUTION must be used when cleaning soft timber to reduce the pressure and avoid damaging the sapwood. The longer that Cutek QuickClean is left on the substrate, the greater the rinse time required. Additionally, certain types of wood surfaces may leave a raised grain effect after stripping is completed. Sanding or poly pad scrubbing may be required to smooth out this condition.

Recoating with Cutek

Following the restoration of the timber with CUTEK CD33 Naked, it is important to complete the restoration process by coating the timber with an appropriate Cutek wood protection oil, following the procedure detailed in this website.

Failure to treat the wood after restoration will result in the weathering process occurring more rapidly than it took prior to restoration.

Coverage

Spreading rate is aproximately 1 litre of stripper per 3 m2 of surface area to be stripped.

Cutek LowVOC Oil

New Wood

Ensure that timber to be coated is clean and dry. Cutek LowVOC can be used on treated timber, however wood with mill glaze, or pre-treated with wax and polymer processes such as LOSP may require cleaning first with Cutek Proclean.

Old, or Previously Coated Wood

Old, dirty, stained or weathered timber should be prepared by first applying Cutek Proclean restoration agent, then power rinsing with a high-pressure washer set to under 750 p.s.i. (50 bar), with a fan jet pattern to avoid damage to the wood fibre. Once the timber is thoroughly dry, apply two coats of Cutek LowVOC.

Wood previously coated with a film forming product such as stains, linseed oil, paint, polyurethane, etc., must first be restored with Cutek CD33 Naked paint stripper and Cutek Proclean prior to the application of Cutek LowVOC. This process can be complex, so view the videos on this website for more information.

The results achieved from restoration are dramatic and rewarding – the original natural colour and beauty of wood can be restored.

Application Technique

Before you get started

Before you begin, note the hazards and precautions on this website and the can labelling, and ensure that you use the correct safety equipment as detailed in the Safety Data Sheet.

Step by step application process

Avoid contact with plants, shrubs, trees and waterways. For best results, one coat of Cutek LowVOC should be applied to all faces of the wood prior to installing, with a second coat applied to the top surface once the first coat is completely dry.  Penetration time varies significantly, depending on species, temperature, porosity, and moisture content of the wood.  Thicker sections such as post, beams and logs will require additional coats, as Cutek LowVOC has a cumulative effect in the wood.

Apply each coat evenly with brush, paintpad or roller.  When using Cutek Colourtone it is essential that the container holding the oil be stirred frequently both before and during use.  Two or three thin coats on finished wood and hardwoods are better that one or two thick coats.

Wood must feel completely dry and non-greasy before application of the second coat.

Cleanup

Equipment may be cleaned with soap and water or turps.  Oily rags and other oily materials may cause combustion fires.  Immediately after use you MUST (1) spread out all oily materials outside to dry, by flattening them out to their full size in an airy spot at temperatures above 4 degrees Celsius,  or (2) Wash them thoroughly with water and detergent and rinse.  Remove all oil from all clothes, tools, rags and any other materials contacted during use or as a result of an accidental spill. All wash water is to be disposed of properly.

Coverage

These figures represent typical averages for common decking and cladding timbers such as Western Red Cedar, Pine, Spotted Gum, Jarrah, Ironbark, Ipe, Tiger deck, Cumaru and other Exotics, Thermal wood etc.

New hardwoods dressed10–20m2/litre (400–800 sq feet/gallon)
Old restored timber dressed7–9m2/litre (300–400sq feet/gallon)
New timber rough sawn7–9m2/litre (300–400sq feet/gallon)
Old restored timber rough sawn4–7m2/litre (180–300sq feet/gallon)
Shingles and shakes2–5m2/litre (84–212sq feet/gallon)